Sikkim has 4 unofficial parts from tourism aspect, North / South / East / West. Gangtok is somewhat right in the middle from where you should start your Sikkim Trip.

Anyone with a personal vehicle (White Number Plate), be it bike or 4-wheeler can drive up to Gangtok without any permit or extra documentation. Permits are needed for most of the North and East Sikkim destinations. One can travel to West Sikkim locations without the need of any extra permit or permission.
In our previous article, we have discussed and given detailed route and travel plan for East and West Sikkim. You can read it here -> https://lazytourer.com/in/kolkata-to-sikkim-personal-car-self-drive-tour-guide/
In this article, we are going to provide details about North Sikkim (destinations like Chungthang, Lachen, Lachung, Chopta Valley, Thangu Valley, Gurudombar Lake, Yungthang Valley, Zero Point, etc. and help you plan your route and journey.
Tentative Plans
If you are not using your personal vehicle and using the cheapest possible option, a shared taxi conducted tour with Sikkim Govt approved taxi operator and (drive acts as guide) then following 2N (night) – 3D (Day) tour plan is followed,
| Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 |
| Tourists Report to Gangtok Vajra Taxi Stand by 8:30AM and buy ticket Documents are collected & sent for permit Cars starts leaving for Lachen via Chungthang (using the temporary road) by 11:30AM Sightseen are done in route to Lachen Night Halt at Lachen while cars reach late in the evening | Checkout from Hotel by 5AM with or without breakfast Starts early at 5AM for Gurudomber Lake Kala-Paththar On the way back from Gurudomber Lake Launch at Lachen Reaching Lachung by late evening Night Halt at Lachung | Checkout from Lachung Hotel by 5AM with or without breakfast Start early by 5:30AM towards Yumthang Valley Then towards ZeroPoint Then to Mount Katao Back to Lachung for Launch Start towards Gangtok by 2PM |
This is a very hectic schedule. It used to be a good schedule when road conditions were good but at present, especially after the 2023 floods and recent early August 2025 heavy rains, roads are at very poor conditions along with multiple long sections of absolute mountain off roads. To keep tourist cost down and to save days, State Govt. tour operators and still following this same plan but for a self-drive person, this is not recommended. At-least till they get the roads ready and reopen, consider the following,
| Day 1 | Meet a permit agent or drive up to 3rd mile check post to do your permit yourself a day advance. |
| Day 2 | Start Early by 6 / 6:30 AM from Gangtok to Lachen (do the sightseen in route) / Night Halt at Lachen |
| Day 3 | Start early like others in pack towards Gurudombar by 5AM / Do Kala Paththar while returing / Launch & Checkout from Lachen towards Lachung / Night Halt at Lachung |
| Day 4 | Start early by 6 / 6:30AM for Yumthang Valley / Zero Point and then back towards Mount Katao / Night Halt at Lachung |
| Day 5 | Start early by 6AM towards Gangtok and then down to Siliguri |
You can cut a day short here by doing the permit work on the same day as your Gangtok to Lachen travel like what tour operators do. But in that case, you are going to start at-least 4/5 hours late, like others by 11:30AM from Gangtok. Problem is, you really don’t want to drive this route after sunset. You have to cut down in your sightseen in this route to zero and keep driving nonstop, since, even then, it would get dark by the time you reach Lachen.
Tentative Route Plans
Technically speaking, one can take a direct and shorter route to Mangan from Siliguri via Dikchu. From Siliguri, one can take NH10 via Sevok Road then Kalimpong and then cross into Sikkim via Rongpo (WB – Sikkim Border). From Rongpo, NH10 up to Singtham then divert left onto Singtham Dikchu road till Dikchu and then up to Mangan as shown in the map below,

Mangan Police Check post has a permit cell which has the authority to issue personal, and vehicle permits for North Sikkim. But, this above shown route is no longer suitable for tourist traffic due to the extensive damage sustained in 2023 floods. Some sections are still completely washed out and work in progress to repair this section.
With this route deem closed, the only option is to first visit the state capital Gangtok and then apply for permit there from their central permit cell. So you have to spend a night minimum at Gangtok for permit process.
North Sikkim itinerary & Route Plan
<- Day 1 -> (Gangtok to Lachen Drive)
This section can be divided into 4 subsections.
| Gangtok to U. Mangshila (lower part of Mangan town) | Mangshila to Dickhu (for Phidang Bridge crossing) | (Road not available in Maps) | Chungthag to Lachen (Final Climb) |
First Section (Gangtok to Mangan) -> Start early from Gangtok by 6:30AM and follow the NH310A up to Lower Mangan (U. Mangshila).

This route has multiple cool tourist spots, waterfalls, monastery and mountain viewpoints for photo ops. Road conditions in this section are mostly good but expect very stiff climbs, sharp hairpins and blind narrow curves. Spend your time climbing while stopping at those tourist locations but don’t waste too much time, ensure to reach U. Mangshila (lower parts of Mangan) by 12:30/1PM noon.


Plan your launch & refuel here at this location. This is the last petrol / diesel pump in your route. Entire North Sikkim at present (as of April 2025) doesn’t have a working fuel pump. There are no car or bike sold in India with large enough fuel tank to do this entire route with single tank of fuel. You will have to carry extra fuel like everyone else you may see at this fuel pump. If you arrive unprepared and without any fuel carry can, don’t worry, since local shops around the pump will sell you fuel carry cans of 5L or 10L. For most of the cars, 2x10L cans with aprox 18L of extra fuel is good enough.
Second Section (Mangan to Dikchu) -> This is a very short section with relatively easy drive. After the meal and your refuel, take the Mangan (U. Mangshila) to Dikchu road down towards Dikchu.

Just before Dikchu town, at a place called Feedang / Phidang, you would find a temporary bridge constructed & controlled by BRO / Amry to cross the river to go to the other side. Expect heavy traffic jam here since it is a single lane operation and one vehicle at a time.
For our country’s security reasons, due to the proximity of the neighboring China Border, most of the BRO locations, Work Sites, Army positions and such are prohibited from photography and videography. Once you approach the Phidang (Feedang) Bridge, from there on, pretty much the entire route (except the designated tourist locations) are deemed no video/picture zone. By respecting the law, I am unable to post many pictures and I urge anyone traveling in this route to respect the law & our national security by not clicking or taking pictures and posting them online.
3rd Section (Dikchu to Chungthang) -> Earlier, the main route went up from Mangan to Chungthang via Naga Falls. But after 2023 floods, this entire route is washed away and presently under construction. That is why one needs to take this diversion to Dikchu and then cross the river to go to the other side.

This route almost runs parallel to the Mangan to Chungthang route but via the other side of the river. This is a temporary route, very narrow and stiff climbs. Infact, at most places, this route is just a mountain trail. During peak season and tourist travel hours, expect congestion due to oncoming traffic and narrow roads. Follow a local vehicle and use horn in blind curves while keeping your ears open to hear oncoming horn.
This route is not yet marked and visible in the Google Maps, so ask locals or on duty security personals for direction towards “ChungThang” if needed
Chungthang to Lachen (Last Section) -> It will take you considerable amount of time to cover the last section and if all goes alright, you should be having around 1 hour of day light max by now at Chungthang. But unfortunately, road conditions from now on will get even worst.
Chungthang has a major checkpoint for permit and papers and they will encourage you to dispose off all plastic bottles. Remember, anything lower than 2L plastic bottle may attract fine. Although they aren’t that strict with indepth checking but don’t get caught to avoid the penalty. I dont have any documents, but checkpoint on duty personals informed me about 5L / 2L or such large water bottles are only allowed. Otherwise use those flask type larger water bottles. They are very strict with plastic usage up here.

The road here splits in two, one direction towards Lachen and another towards Lachung. On your arrival date, as per itinerary, you are going to take the left turn towards Lachen.

This section is a disaster at present. Completely washed out in last 2023 floods. Rebuilding work is underway but still no pavement yet and often mountain heavy rain makes this section really tough to climb. On top, most likely, you are going to do this section during dark hours.


Night Halt at Lachen
Your first night halt, after leaving Gangtok, is at Lachen. The entire town is a giant home stay. Hotel type buildings but managed by the locals and their families with no paid staff. Ensure to pre-book during peak season as your arrival time here could get very very late due to the poor roads.

Accommodations are decent here. From high budget mid-tier to budget friendly to dorms for bikers but still all of them would be somewhat costly. Facilites are there, like geyser at attach bathroom, room heater, TV, WiFi but due to frequent and really long (lasting weeks) power cuts, the entire town runs on generators and that, depending on budget hotel, may not be enough for all day operation.
Food choices are also very limited. For more budget friendly options, home cooked meals are only option for you.
Day 2 (Gurudomber Lake / Kalapaththar)
Start early by 5:30AM from Lachen for your Gurudomber climb. Roads are good from here on except one river (lachen) crossing. The main dam and bridge are washed away on the flash floods of 2023, there is a temporary crossing section built by BRO but depending on weather, this may create issues as often it may deem unsafe and stay closed.
After crossing this section, roads are smooth all the way up to Gurudomber Lake. But black ice may create some issues so keep it slow and take your time to allow enough sunlight on the road surface.
Visit Kalapaththar on your return from Gurudomber Lake to Lachen and try to reach Lachen by 2PM for your launch.
Lachen to Lachung
Ensure to cross the Lachen to Chungthang section during day light. The section between Chungthang to Lachung is most good, unaffected during the last floods.

Night Halt (Day 2) Lachung
The second day night halt is at Lachung. Accommodation options are far better and lot more than Lachen. Although the food choices and electricity are still an issue here. However, much better and professionally managed hotels are available at Lachung compared to lachen.
You can spend your evening exploring the small town but with much better and wider roads.
Although apart from natural beauty for photo-ops activity options are non existent.
Ensure to go to bed early for next morning drive

Day 3 – ZeroPoint / Yumthang Valley / Mount Katao
Start early by 6/6:30AM from Lachung for Yumthang Valley and Zero point. Road conditions are good except few water crossings, but they are manageable. Check the fuel condition before starting, if needed, use the extra fuel that you are carrying.


Unless it snows, drive to Yumthang Valley and ZeroPoint should be a smooth experience. If it does snow, allow sunlight to fall on the road properly to melt the black-ice. Plenty of photo-ops locations, take your time, enjoy the drive. You have the entire day today. There are plenty of road side food joints but options are Maggie (Instant Noodles) or momo at best.



Try to return by noon 1PM for a quick launch at Lachung for your drive to Mount Katao. If possible skip the launch and drive straight to mount Katao. Weather is your enemy here, if you get late and weather gets bad, the route will be closed for tourist traffic.
Not only that, by now you will need to refuel your car using those two extra cans. By now, your fuel meter may be screaming at you for low fuel.
Night Halt (Day 3) at Lachung
Most of the local tourist cabs will starts their decent down towards Gangtok after launch from Lachung but with present road condition and your continued nonstop driving so far, it is better to avoid this night drive and stay put at Lachung for the night halt on Day 3.
Day 4 (Return Drive)
Start early by 6AM from Lachung for your return drive. The same toute down as you have taken for upwards journey. However, starting this early will mean really no traffic for few hours. Use horn in blind turns and keep your ears open for other horns.
If weather permits, you should be down at Siliguri by 12 hours including a launch break at U. Mangshila
Now it would be on you as what to do next from here on. Like for me, I crossed Siliguri by 7PM (due to city traffic and poor weather) and decided to avoid the night halt and continue towards Kolkata.
Permits / Choice of Vehicle
You can’t go to North Sikkim without permit. That is true but there are many misconceptions and misinformation about this permit process. Let’s try to simply them a little.
Often you may hear, especially from local hotels or drivers that no out side cars are allowed in North Sikkim. But that is a complete lie. Personal cars are definitely allowed but there is a restriction on engine capacity. Some may also say, only SUV with 4×4 are allowed but that is also a myth since my Ford Figo Aspire, a compact front wheel drive low ground clearance sedan was definitely allowed for both North and East Sikkim restricted area. Only criteria it seems, is 1500cc (1.5L) engine capacity.
However, do not dare to take your sedan or hatch on this route. Chance of breakdown due to underbody hits are real. Road conditions are really poor for these low GC cars. Front Wheel drive compact SUVs (Like Hyundai Venu or Tata Nexons are minimum here.
Even with a good high ground clearance car, you still need to ensure that you have a very good condition tyre. At-least for the driven wheels (Front two tyres) for FWD cars. Thumb rule, if the tyres are more than 25k kms old, go ahead with early replacement before this trip. Your tyres will take really bad abuse here and you really don’t want a tyre cut or burst during this trip. Remember, RSA (Road side Assistance) can’t reach you up in this route.
For car permit document, you need original and xerox copies of vehicle valid RC (Smart Card / BlueBook), latest Tax Token / PUC (Pollution) / Insurance / Registration Certificate and Drivers license. Remember, owner of the car must be present, as otherwise, you need an authorization certificate from the owner.
Permit officials and Police do harass at times if the owner is not present and owner is not a direct blood relative (Father / Monther / Son / Spouse) even with a authorization letter / certificate.
For individuals (driver and passengers), Voter ID Card is must along with a passport size photographs of each person.
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